Foot covering



June 18, 1968 F. J. DIAMANT FOOT COVERING Filed Aug. 2, 1965 /A/l/E/vra/P. F/QspEk/c/Y J. D/AMA//r United States Patent O r"ice 3,388,486 FOOT CVERING Frederick J. Diamant, Deseo Shoe Corporation, 209 W. 33rd St., New York, NSY. 10001 Filed Ang. 2, 1965, Ser. No. 476,440 1 Claim. (Cl. Sti-585) ABSTRACT OF Tim DISCLSURE The disclosure describes an larticle of footwear where an elastic goring is substituted for a reinforced counter by attaching an elastic strip, under sufficient tension to form gathers in the material of the rear quarter and the upper, to the upper adjacent the top of a counter liner whose topmost edge extends upwardly from a point on the footwear adjacent the shank of the sole, around the rear of the footwear at the height above the heel of a normal counter yand then downward to a corresponding point adjacent the shank of the sole on the opposite side, the goring being positioned between the counter liner and the rear quarter.

This invention relates to a foot covering and a method of making the same. More particularly, this invention relates to a foot covering having a novel goring secured to the quarter portion thereof.

In shoe and boot construction it is conventional to provide the -rear quarter portion with a reinforced counter that is made 4of either a stitened leather or synthetic composition. The counter is `shaped. to conform generally with the wearers heel and aids in holding the heel in place within the shoe. It has been determined that in certain instances, particularly in the construction of boots, it is desirable to eliminate the reinforced counter because it irritates the wearers foot particularly around the Achilles tendon. This invention relates to a novel construction which replaces the reinforced counter and yet performs substantially all the functions of a counter.

This invention is accomplished by attaching under tension an elastic strip or goring to the rear quarter portion of the footwear in place of the reinforced counter.

It therefore is a general object of the present invention to provide a novel foot covering and method of making the same.

Yet another object of the present invention is to provide a novel foot covering having elastic means stitched to the quarter portion of the foot covering.

It is still another object of the present invention to provide a novel boot having an elastic strip stitched to the rear quarter portion at a position equivalent to what would have been the top edge lof a counter which the elastic strip replaces.

Other objects will appear hereinafter.

For the purpose of illustrating the invention, there are shown in the drawings forms which are presently preferred; it being understood, however, that this invention is not limited to the precise arrangements and instrurnentalities shown. s

FIGURE 1 is a side view of the foot covering of the present invention illustrated Ias a boot.

FIGURE 2 is an enlarged fragmentary view of the boot shown in FIGURE 1 with a portion broken away to show the interior.

FIGURE 3 is a sectional view of the boot shown in FIGURE 1 taken along the line 3-3.

FIGURE 4 is an enlarged partial sectional view of the boot shown in FIGURE 1 taken .along the line 4 4.

FIGURE 5 is a view of a boot similar to that shown in FIGURE l but showing a modiiied embodiment.

Referring now to the -drawing in detail, wherein like 3,388,486 Patented June 18, 1968 numerals indicate like elements, there is shown in FIG- URE l a foot covering in `the form of a boot design-ated generally as 1t).

The boot 10 comprises an upper 12 which may take the form of known uppers proposed heretofore or in accordance with the style presently being worn. For purposes of illustration, the upper 12 is shown as being a boot having a vamp 14, a shank portion 16, a rear quarter portion 18 and a top 20.

The vamp 14, shank portion 16 and rear quarter portion 18 may be lasted and attached to a sole 22 and heel 24 in the conventional manner.

Prior to lasting the upper 12 is formed from leather or synthetic materials which are cut to the required shape, preferably in -two halves. The halves are joined at the seams which will be at the front `and rear of the completed boot. The rearrnost seam where the two halves 26 and ZS have been joined along the seam 36 by placing what eventually will be the outside of the boot face to face and stitching closely adjacent the edges. A finishing strip 32 may be sewed :along what will ultimately be the upper edge of the top 21B. By forming the seam 30 as thus described the outside of the boot will present a neat smooth seam. If desired, and to prevent irritation of the wearers leg, a strip of fabric 34 may be attached to the inn-er side of the seam 3d by .any conventional means. In the embodiment disclosed it is preferred to glue the strip 34 in place.

After the halves 26 :and 2S have been joined at the sea-m 30 and the strip 34 applied, they are laid ilat. An elastic goring is attached to the halves 26 and 28 by laying it across the seam 30 at a position which ordinarily defines the top of the reinforced counter. Before attach- Iing the elastic goring strip 36 it is placed under tension by stretching it. While under tension goring 36 is laid across the seam 30 and Iattached to the halves 26 and 28 of the rear quarter portion 18 of upper 12, preferably by stitching it in place with stitching 42 at spaced intervals completely along its length, as shown in FIGURES 4 and 5. After stitching, the tension on goring strip 36 is released with the result that it moves back to its untensioned position. In so moving back, it gathers in the material forming halves 26 and 28. The result -is that a number of gathers designated generally as 3S are formed in the rear quarter portion 18 of upper 12 adjacent the elastic goring 36. The combination of the gathers and the elastic goring permits the boot to expand and contract in this area. The elastic goring strip 36 may be made of any well-known material such as rubber which has sufficient elastic strength to provide the gathers 33 in the boot 16.

Subsequent to attaching the elastic goring 36, a counter liner 40 is stitched at 42 or otherwise attached to the halves 26 and 28. The counter liner overlies the inside of the boot 10 adjacent the rear quarter portion 18. Normally a counter liner retains the reinforced counter in position. In this instance, the counter line-r 40y will be stitched in so that the goring 36 will be adjacent its top edge las shown in FIGURE 4. Counter 40 may be made of any soft lining mae'trial such as suede or calfskin or the like.

Following the attachment of counter liner 4i), the halves 26 and 28 are folded Ito align the unattached edges which eventually will form the front seam of the boot. The halves 26 and 28 are folded so that the side which ultimately will be the interior of the boot, is on the outside. The front seam is formed by stitching adjacent the edges and then a strip of material similar to the strip 34 is attached over the seam. The next step in constructing the boot is to turn it inside out so that the goring 36, counter liner 40 will .be on the interior of the boot. The

3 upper 10 as thus completed is then lasted vand sole 22 and heel 24 is attached.

When the boot is worn, the heel of the foot is pushed down into the boot. The elastic goring stretches permitting the heel to be properly seated. Once the `foot is in position in the boot, the elastic goring pulls the boot inwardly around the heel and holds it in place in the same manner as a counter. This construction permits a boot to be produced without a counter and yet having the same fitting qualities as a boot with a counter.

Referring now to FIGURE 5, there is shown a second embodiment of the present invention designated generally as 5). The construction of the boot Sti and the method of accomplishing it is the same as that described with respect to the boot shown in FIGURE 1 except as hereinafter designated. For purposes of simplifying the description, elements similar to those shown with the boot in FIGURE 1 have been designated with primed numbers.

Thus, the boot 50 includes an upper 12' including a vamp portion 14', a shank portion 16', a rear quarter portion 18' and a top 2G. A sole 22 and heel 24 are attached to the upper 12.

In this embodiment of the invention, an elastic goring 52 is attached to the upper 12 in the manner described with respect to the boot of FIGURE 1 but in this ernbodiment the goring 52 extends from the shank portion on one side of the boot completely around the rear quarter portion to the sharzlr portion on the other side. Thus, the goring 52 is co-extensive of the counter linor upper edge. Accordingly, gathers 3S' are formed adjacent the top edge of the counter liner around the entire area of the boot rear quarter portion 1S'. This construction provides a greater holding force for the Wearers heel if desired.

The present invention may be embodied in other specific forms Without departing from the spirit or essential attributes thereof and, accordingly, reference should Q be made to the appended claim, rather than to the foregoing specification as indicating the scope of the invention.

I claim:

1. A boot comprising a sole, a heel, and an upper secured to said sole and heel, said upper including a vamp portion, a rear quarter portion provided internally with a counterliner having a top edge of maximum height at the back of the boot sloping downwardly and forwardly toward the sole, and a top portion extending above said quarter portion, said upper 4being ra flexible material, a goring comprising an elongated strip of elastic material, stitching securing said strip to said quarter portion, said strip being spaced .above said heel, said stitching being at spaced intervals completely along the length of said strip with said strip being under tension with respect to said quarter portion, said strip to be located adjacent the top edge of said counter liner and extending forward from said quarter portion toward the shank portion of said sole, said goring being under sutlicient tension to form gathers in said upper in the area adjacent the goring.

References Cited UNITED STATES PATENTS 2,846,784 8/1958 Bush 36-51 1,401,790 12/1921 Ke'rnohan 36-58.5 1,516,465 11/1924 Dennison et al. S13- 58.5 1,745,726 2/1930 Snow 36-58.5 1,843,271 2/1932 Elkin 12-146 X 2,724,194 11/1955 Gustin 36 58.5 X 2,935,798 5/1960 Piberhofcr 36--58.5 X

FOREIGN PATENTS 208,562 9/1955 Australia. 638,692 11/1936 Germany.

PATRICK D. LAWSON, Primary Examiner. ALFRED R. GUEST, Examiner. 

